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 Expedition Update
Geoff Green
Hi there all ...
I only noticed a bout an hour ago, that two of the emails I sent this morning did not go. I hope you have now received them. Yesterday was a spectacular, magical, wonderful day where no amount of superlatives could possibly do justice. I hope that the student's journals reflected the many highlights and wonders of the day. It was a Christmas Day to remember forever. We awoke in Paradise Bay with blue skies and flat calm seas with mirror reflections of icebergs, mountains and glaciers. After breakfast, we hopped in the Zodiacs for a morning of exploration which included a hike to the top of a panoramic ridge, and a zodiac cruise through an Antarctic wonderland. The students witnessed the power of glacier calving and avalanches, as well as the peace and solitude that exists here. Weddell seals on ice floes, Gentoo penguins, and other nesting seabirds, mosses and lichens, and so much more were part of our inspiring morning experience.
After lunch we cruised south through the Gerlache Strait towards Port Lockroy. The students were on the outer decks just soaking it all in, when we suddenly spotted Orca whales off the port side! To say we were in the right place at the right time is a gross understatement. The whales swam directly at us, then under us, and then proceeded to past us to join another group of Orcas that had found a seal basking on an ice floe. What ensued after that was a scence still difficult to describe. The whales began hunting the seal. I had seen the hunting technique once before in 1999, and I never expected to see witness it again. The Orcas began "spy hopping", which is when they stick their heads about the surface to look on the ice. Then the whales disappeared and out of nowhere a wave came up out of the sea and went directly at the ice floe. It hit the ice and the seal with quite a force, but the seal hung on. the student's cheered! This continued over and over for the next hour, until eventually the ice floe was reduced to a fraction of its original size, and the seal had no where to hide. Yes, the whales caught him. However, they did not kill the seal right away. Instead the adult whales proceeded to train their young in how to handle the seal, how to hunt, etc. At one point, the enormous male which had a dorsal fin of at least 6 feet high, actually gently placed the seal back onto the ice floe with his mouth! It was all an experience that will stay with each of us for a lifetime. A prileged chance to share space with whales and an opportunity to bare witness to one of mother nature's moments of awe and wonder.
Our Antarctic day concluded with a visit to the old British base at Port Lockroy. Here the students had a chance to step back in time and see what it was like to live in the Antarctic 50 years ago. They also took the opportunity to send some postcards and letters home! An evening of Holiday Celebrations followed with Turkey dinner, lots of laughs and fun, a gift exchange, and a visit from Scobie Claus!
As the students were all heading off to their beds at the end of our remarkable day, we received a call from another ship in the area. The ship was stuck in ice about 25 miles from our position, and needed assistance immediately. Strong northeasterly winds had pushed the pack ice to the south and unexpectedly and quickly trapped the vessel in its tracks. We quickly weighed anchor and proceeded full speed ahead towards their position. It was a long night of breaking ice but the Polar Star and her Captain and crew, didn't blick for a second and were up for the challenge . We were the only icebreaker in the area capable of making it through the difficult ice conditions. At about 5:00am we reached her position and the rescue mission began. For the next 10 hours, we broke a path through the ice and guided the ship to open waters. It was yet another incredible experience that the student will never forget! At one point, the students were all out on deck waving at the passengers and crew on the other vessel only meters away, and wishing them a Merry Christmas and Happy Boxing Day! It was quite a scene, our two ships alone in with ice around us as far as the eye could see...
Three cheers rang out for our Captain for his awesome display of ice navigation when we finally came back out of the ice at 5:00pm. In the big picture, the day was a great lesson and example of Mother Nature's power, and the need for us to respect her. A profound and exciting way of reinforcing in the students, our need to reconnect with the natural world we live in.
What an expedition it has been so far! We are now sailing north to Cuverville Island were we intend to anchor this evening and have a BBQ dinner!! It is hard to believe but tomorrow is our final full day in the Antarctic. The expedition has flown by. We intend to attempt two Zodiac landings before beginning our journey back across the Drake Passage to Southg America.
Geoff Green
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Expedition Journals
(December 26th, 2004)
What a day after Christmas! Much of it was spent in the ice, guiding another vessel to safety. Rest assured that at no time were we in any danger. Captain Asbjorn, who has over 50 years of maritime experience, and his capable crew carried out the rescue of a Russian research vessel caught in pack ice. It was amazing to see how our ship, classed as an ice breaker and built for this type of work, could be manoeuvred as easily as the car in your driveway. Both the Polar Star and the Vavilov are continuing their respective expeditions and will dock together in Ushuaia in a few days. Our trip through the pack ice provided the opportunity to see a great number of seals, usually lying alone on the frozen ice and mostly unconcerned with our approach. Penguins, on the other hand, skidded on their bellies as they desperately tried to move away from the oncoming ship. Late this afternoon we passed through the Lamaire Channel which is surrounded by towering peaks and is only 500 meters across at its narrowest point.
The students are now in their cabins for the night as we are anchored in a small bay surrounded by glaciers. It is snowing and we cannot see more than the walls of the glaciers as they meet the sea. Once again, we are being treated to the true Antarctic experience.
Ellen
Chaperone
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Another True Epic Tale
Right this very moment we are sitting in the lounge watching the crew of the Polar Star rescue the Russian ship Akademik Sergey Vavilov, which is stuck in the ice.
We were casually sleeping Christmas night, when we suddenly heard Geoff loudly announce over the intercom that we had been sailing toward a Russian vessel trapped in ice with our vessel being the closest. We got their call just as our Christmas celebration was ending while we were lifting anchor from Port Lockroy, a British base which is now one of the largest tourist attractions in Antarctica. Although this ship was five hours away we had to do the right thing and rescue it from the ice which had encased its hull. We tried many methods to set them free. We first attempted to dislodge the ice around the ship in hopes they would be able to break free (yeah...if that would have worked this story would be so boring and this journal entry would just be pointless!). After failing several times, we made our way in front of their ship where we tied ropes to the stern of our boat. And so we began the long process of towing our fellow Antarctic travellers.
Now four gruelling hours later, we have finally departed for some destination of which we do not know. Crazy eh? Sergey Vavilov's bow is literally attached to our stern. We had the entire crew tying two large black ropes through a port hole and attaching them to our decks. JUST two ropes are being used which we do not believe is enough, especially since while they we first linking us together one of the ropes snapped.
Once joined, her bow broke our deck light and bent the railings. She is now applying pressure on our ship in order to stay aligned with us. We will guide her back out into the open water from which we came so both ships can continue on their journeys.
*Lecture on sea ice--break time*
Okay. Now the lecture is over. This lecture was very interesting. Near the end of our lecture the other ship snapped both of the ropes and is now detached from us (again). We are on probation from chillin' on the lowest deck on the stern considering that there such an operation going on. Geoff doesn't want us falling off.
Now once again we are trying to bond the boats together. Hey! Where did it go?! This is not working out too well. Well now the crew of both ships have decided towing is not the best of ideas, so we will be moving on and the Sergey Vavilov will be following in our wake as we break the ice ahead. The result: a way out of this sea of ice.
Love for now,
Kristen (I mean Lindsey), Jess L., and Lauracindy
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Hey everyone, it's been a while since I wrote anything for the site so I guess I should get one done. The trip thus far has been great, truly an experience of a life time. I have seen some of the most beautiful landscapes in the world, had the chance to listen to penguins carry on a conversation of thousands. I have witnessed the amazing view of a group of whales rock a seal off an iceberg by creating its own wave. I've hiked a southern mountain and swam the Antarctic sea. I have been fortunate to meet some of the greatest people on earth and see the true power of humanity with the rescue of a fellow ship caught in the ice. I left home unaware of what I might experience, and I wait today on a ship still unaware of what I will experience in the few days we have left. I have heard a new side of nature, the nature untouched by human hands, without the whistle of "civilization." I first felt so foreign to this continent, but now feel almost as natural here as I do at home. Christmas without my family has to be the worst side to this voyage, but Christmas with a new family also proved to be one of the best parts. Despite the utmost joy I have for being in Antarctica, I cannot wait to get home and share my joys with others. Antarctica truly is a living entity in itself.
Josh Pamak
Nain, Labrador
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It is six thirty in the evening and we have experienced an exhibition of talent that many of us would say has been beyond belief. Our ship's captain saved the day by assisting a ship in need through some incredible ice pack that amassed due to high north by north east winds. We were witness to world class navigation at work. David Fletcher our infamous Antarctic expeditionary come epic story teller took hold of a teachable moment and taught us about the ice of Antarctica. Ice pack, bergy bits, bergs, floe ice and ice formation and ice melt were all clearly featured during Dave's presentation. SOI expeditioners then witnessed first hand the ice in action as our ship forged its way through the Lemaire Channel.
Once in open water we took to the air with Bill Lishman, better known to many as "Father Goose" creator of a moving film titled "Fly Away Home" based on the true story of his life. What an incredibly creative individual. Bill introduced how one's creativity can successfully fulfill dreams and contribute to the advancement of the survival of bird species that have been threatened by extinction. You can learn more about Bill's efforts by visiting www.operationmigration.org.
As the ship charted the waters of the Gerlache Strait, through blustery and icy 50 knot winds, our students performed for each other. Soothing songs were sung, humourous poems read and traditional stories told. We listened silently with anticipation to each and every one. The talent demonstrated was impressive!!!!
Spirits are high and dinner is about to be served!
P.S. Sophie and Emilie…today we saw over thirty Crabeater seals…they were relaxing on the ice flows. When the ship floated by the seals they would wriggle to the chilly Antarctic waters or just lift their heads as if to say you tourists do at times interrupt my day!!!!
Trudy -Chaperone
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I hope that everyone at home had a very Merry Christmas. Christmas on the ship was great with a special surprise visit by Santa Claus. The gift exchange was lots of fun as the Canadian Bowl was stolen from multiple people. We had a very late night and woke up at 5 a.m. to hear Geoff telling us to come up to the deck to see the Russian ship that was captured in the built up ice. We rescued them and have been slowing dragging them towards open water. Fortunately, everyone is safe and well.
We will be spending most of the day breaking the ice for the other ship, making painstakingly slow progress. To keep all of us busy, the education team has organized many lectures. I believe that the most exciting lecture of the day will be Bill Lishman's lecture on the real story behind the Hollywood movie "Fly Away Home." In between the lectures we will have free time to sleep and watch the ice.
This trip has been absolutely incredible. When you think that yesterday couldn't top the day to come you become pleasantly surprised by all the adventures to come. Each day is better then the last and no two days are ever the same. Love to all and we'll be home before you know it.
Emma Stinson
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Who could ask for anything more? ...
A poem by Phillip Swarts
Happy Boxing Day, Students on Ice!
Wasn't our Christmas celebration quite nice?
We saw some Orcas hunting for a meal,
And all of us were glad we weren't Lucky the seal.
Early in the morning, we finally went to bed.
We were so tired, we thought we were dead.
Out to the deck some people zipped,
When Geoff announced we were rescuing a ship.
She was stuck in the ice and couldn't move;
But the power of our ship we were able to prove.
With the cold weather we had to cope,
To say 'Hi' to the people, and attach a rope.
Which snapped, causing this attempt to be done,
And sent us back for ideas from square one.
The ship we were finally able to tow,
And through the ice and snow we did go.
Until with a crash and a sudden fright,
We soon lost our aft section light.
From being done, the fun was far;
Because the Vavilov was intent on smashing the Polar Star.
Again we were rammed, again we were hit,
Which caused the captain to exclaim, "Oh, fiddlesticks!"
We learned about ice from David Fletch,
And viewed the microorganisms in Cecilia's catch.
By the way, Cecilia, Happy Birthday!
May warm birthday wishes be sent your way.
Daniel taught us about taking snapshots,
And during this trip, we've certainly taken lots.
I don't know what exactly tastes like hell.
But if you have it for breakfast, you can't feel well.
John told us about the explorers and early men,
Who on the bravery scale, rate a ten.
Then some of us had a well earned rest,
All snug in our beds, our warm comfy nests.
We got up to learn about birds from Bill,
And saw pictures of his home inside of a hill.
Then everyone went back out on the deck,
To see the Lamaire Channel, and pray the Vavilov didn't wreck.
We went through the ice, and caused some strife,
For some poor seals who ran for their life.
Then to the Vavilov we waved goodbye,
If they get stuck in the ice again, I'm going to cry.
We came back to learn about geese and whooping cranes,
And the efforts being taken to stop the species from going down the drain.
Now we have an open mike, so you better not boo.
After this we'll be having a Bar-B-Q!
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Hello to everyone!
Students on Ice to the rescue! Our boat Polar Star rescued a Russian boat early this morning. It was around 5 a.m. when Geoff made an announcement that there was another boat stuck in pack ice so I immediately went front of the boat to see and it was about 2 miles south. We're towing the other boat right now but the ropes snapped off and the other boat hit the railing of Polar Star and there's a little bit of damage on the railing.
Yesterday was a beautiful day to begin with! The seas were calm (like home) and the sun was shining! We were at Paradise Bay and it was truly paradise! We were sliding down a hill and I went down three times. Some people went down head first but I didn't.
That afternoon we saw about six orcas and we thought they were coming towards us. They actually went under the boat and went hunting! We were watching something that hardly anyone gets to see. The orcas were hunting a crabeater seal! It was so cool! There was a big male orca teaching the babies how to successfully hunt a seal. The babies were making waves to try and make the seal slip off the ice. The dorsal fin of the male was more then six feet high! Some of the expedition leaders agreed that it was the biggest male orca that they have ever seen in Antarctica. It was also the biggest orca I have seen in my life. The seal went into the water and it realized that it was in danger so it went back up to the ice. It went into the water and went back to the ice four or five times. The last time it went up, it was only able to move its head. Then the unthinkable happened, it fell off the ice and it didn't come back up.
This is a Christmas I will remember for the rest of my life!
Mosesie Arlooktook
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Today did not go as we planned it to go. Last night we were able to stay up until after midnight opening our Christmas gifts. Our plan was to stay at anchor all night and sail again this morning, but due to a strong wind, we had to sail that night. This strong wind was a big problem for another ship. That same night, a Russian ship, Akademik Sergey Vavilov was blown into packed ice and they were not able to get free because they didn't have the right kind of boat. They had an ice-class ship, not an ice breaker. So the Polar Star came to the rescue.
We sailed 5 hours to get the Russian ship. The crew tied the front of the ship to our back so we could pull them. Unfortunately both ropes broke and the back rail of our ship is bent. The Russian ship is now following the Polar Star as we break the ice for them. If we had not gotten their call from the other ship, they would have drifted with the ice into dangerous uncharted area of Antarctica. Once again we were at the right place at the right time.
This incident of a rescue rarely happens down here. Although you may think this ruined our plans, it just made them better. We would not have been able to take our zodiac rides anyway, due to the ice. This just made another activity to do during free time before lectures.
There's only a few days left of our trip and so we'll have to say goodbye to all the friends we have made. We made some amazing friendships and I will hate to say good bye. I already am planning a country wide vacation so I can visit a lot of my close friends. I hope that within the next few years I will be able to raise the money to go to Antarctica again.
-*-Nikki-*-
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Greetings parents, relatives, and friends of the Students On Ice (SOI). I am pleased to report that 9 days into our expedition, everyone remains healthy and we have had no major medical problems on board. The air is very dry so there are several who have a bit of a dry cough but this is a minor issue and does not signify an epidemic of upper respiratory infection (also known as colds or flu). The students have generally paid close attention to safety and we have only had a few bumps and bruises, common occurrences on ships at sea. The teachers and chaperones also have been able to maintain good health despite some moderately strenuous hiking. We have had some amazing experiences on this trip such as a rare Orca seal hunting viewing and we are currently involved in a sea rescue of a ship trapped in the ice. We are very pleased that the students have been able to observe so much.
Sincerely,
Michael J. Manyak, MD
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Hello to everyone in Red Deer, Mom, Dad, Jane, Sarah and Song-Yi, hope you are having a great time in the mountains skiing, and hello to Grandma and Grandpa. Well today hasn't been a very eventful day for me but it definitely has been for the crew. Last night the boat received a call saying that there is another boat stuck in the ice. Our boat was one of the only boats that could help so we sailed for 5 hours to help them and have spent the last 7 hours helping them out. They are still following us, and we won't be making any landings or leaving the boat. But that's ok because we had an awesome Christmas day. We started by cruising around Paradise Bay where we saw the most amazing ice. On a small ice float there was a Weddell seal and as we neared it started singing us Christmas carols. Scobie said that usually they are not so vocal. As we were leaving it waved good-bye. Then the most amazing part of the trip happened. On another ice float there was a seal and a pod of orcas traveled from one side of the boat to the other. They appeared right beside the seal and the adult male showed the 5 younger orcas how to hunt the seal. They made huge waves to knock it off but the seal hung on for a long time. It is very hard to describe every thing that happened but it surely was the best Christmas present ever. Later we arrived at Port Lockroy and saw a British base and Gentoo penguins then we had turkey dinner and festivities. The three members of the base joined us for the dinner and festivities. We had our gift exchange and set sail. It truly was a great day. I miss everyone at home tons. See you soon.
Love Frances Durham
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AND for the PHOTOS ...
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