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(Deception Island)
EXPEDITION UPDATE
Tuesday, December 26, 2006
Deception Island, Antarctic Peninsula!
Posted by SOI HQ at 9:00 am EST by SOI HQ
We received quite the collection of student and chaperone journals early this morning, but before we get to them, here is a short update from Expedition Leader, Geoff Green.
(Posted on December 25, 2006)
‘We had a magic Antarctic day today: brilliant sun, blue skies, and calm seas. Early this morning we landed at Danco Island the entire team hiked to the top for some absolutely stunning views of Peninsula mountains – draped in glaciers and snow peaks – stunning! The Errera Channel below was filled with magnificent icebergs. For some students, the hike was a challenge – but everyone persevered and made it. Tonight – Christmas evening – we will sail into Neko Harbour where we plan to have our holiday celebrations dinner, and some tobogganing! There is no better spot to spend such an evening. We are hoping that Santa will find us at the bottom of the world.’’
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STUDENT JOURNALS!
Christine Page - Chaperone
Today we went to the Vernadsky Station; a Ukranian outpost manned 12 months out of the year for research on the atmosphere, weather, and human conditions. The post was large with several out buildings. We took the Zodiacs to Wordie House, a small 18x18 foot wooden building with a small addition. Five men stayed in this building when the British had a scientific post there. They sold the building to the Ukrainians for one pound. I bought a Russian nesting doll at the station to add to my collection as a memento to my visit to Vernadsky Station.
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Jessica Young-Keffer - Chaperone
Hello to my family and friends! I hope that everyone had a wonderful Christmas! We had a fantastic Christmas Day here in Antarctica with three landings, including trekking, Zodiac cruising amongst icebergs and seals, and sliding down the face of different glaciers in the Antarctic Peninsula & Anvers Island. Magnificent… Not many people can say they did that for Christmas Day! This was followed by a fantastic Christmas Dinner put on by the Polar Star Staff & Crew.
It’s almost lunchtime on Boxing Day, and we just finished our first landing of the day to Vernadsky Station, where a Ukrainian team of scientists are studying climate change, specifically ozone layer depletion. More astonishing than that is the time they spend at this station on their own, isolated from what we know as “civilization”!
This is our second last full day here in Antarctica before we commence our journey north and back through the Drake Passage. Will it be “Drake Shake” or “Drake Lake”? Fingers crossed it’s the latter! However, I’ve already put the doctor on full alert that very strong sedatives may be required! (For the students, of course J).
To my husband Kyle, my parents Ron & Lynn, and my sister Jen, I love you and miss you! Xoxo
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Meghan Kaupp & Adele Pultanh - Students
This morning we woke up at 7:45 to watch our wonderful captain sail through the narrow and icy Lemaire Channel. It was so pretty. In the Morning we landed at Vernadsky Station and the Wordie House. The Wordie House is a very small house, which slept about 6 or 7 research scientists for the winter. Visiting allowed us to see how people lived off very simple supplies and resources. Vernadsky Station is a Ukrainian science research station. We where treated to a tour of the station and saw everything from the workout room to where the men sleep at night. They also have one small room for entertainment that included a bar with a pool table and a small gift shop. The gift shop is the southern most gift shop in the world. The men staying at this station made everything in the shop. We were amazed at the conditions these people live in for a full year, even through the winter.
In the afternoon Olle gave a presentation on seals. We have learned so much from Olle; for example did you know that there are 14 species of eared seals and 19 species of true seals. We have already seen five of the six species of seals in Antarctica. After Olle’s lecture we visited Port Lockroy a retired English research station that has been made into a museum and gift shop. At the gift shop we were able to send postcards and buy other gifts such as Olle’s book.
In the evening we had a group re-cap and briefing in the observation lounge. The crew from Port Lockroy Station had dinner with us, told of about the station and answered our questions.
Merry Christmas. We miss you! See you soon.
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Parker Foster – Student
Hello. Hope you had a good Christmas. Today we went to Vernadsky Station. It is owned by the Ukrainians and bought from Britain for one pound. I was surprised by the amount. They study the ozone layer. There is a meteorologist, an oceanographer, a doctor who studies human conditions in the Antarctic, and a geophysicist. It was interesting but we only had a limited time. We then went to Port Lockroy. It was a little home where early expeditioners would stay. It wasn’t the best but still cool. When we got back we ate dinner and had some guests from Port Lockroy who live at the station and show it to ships. We had a lesson from them about the history, and we could ask questions. Then we had a workshop. There was a choice between three different ones—cetacean vocalization, maps/charts and photography/filmmaking.
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Shannon O’Brien - Student
The Penguin Phenomenon
Penguins…. an interesting species. There are many different kinds of these clumsy, cute, and very charismatic animals. We have seen so many of them on this trip that now, when I see one, it’s like, “Oh, look another penguin.” After the first 750,000 at Point Wild, they all look the same.
Actually, that’s completely false. I think that the reason everyone loves these cuddly looking creatures so much is because each one looks like the other, but they’re all vastly different. I’ve seen four species of penguin, and they are so diverse. Each breed brings their own charisma and personality to this wonderful continent.
Besides the different breeds, each penguin has its own traits. The way they walk, the way they talk, or swim, or eat, or fight. Every time I lay eyes on a penguin, it’s like I’m seeing them for the first time again.
I know some of the people are already bored with the penguins. They see “just another one.” It really is a shame because if they could see through my eyes, they would surely be amazed at the wonders each of these small, yet intelligent and fascinating creatures has.
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Taylor Ankrom – Student
Hey everyone!
We have done so much. We’ve been to a bunch of the islands and finally got to touch the Antarctic continent yesterday. This has been a very humbling trip so far because every thing is so peaceful and undisturbed. If you sit in the middle of the ice and snow and stay quiet, the wildlife will come up to you and then go on their way. Sitting down and soaking it in has been the best thing I have ever done. I wish all of you could be here to share this wonder trip of heart, mind, and soul.
I wish you all the best.
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John Paydo - Chaperone
Hello to my students at Mayfield Middle School! I am going to list the landings that I have made so far in Antarctica. If you would like an additional enrichment project, you can research one of the landings below. Each area is rich in history and wildlife.
- Point Wild (Elephant Island)
- Heroine Island (Part of Danger Islands)
- Paulet Island
- Whaler’s Bay (Deception Island)
- Hannah Point (Livingston Island)
- Danco Island
- Neko Harbour
- Vernadsky Station
- Port Lockroy
I hope you are all enjoying a wonderful winter break! I am looking forward to seeing you on January 3, 2007!
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Melissa Jamrock – Adult Expeditioner
Hello everyone!!!
The “March of the Jamrock” is well underway. After a rough first night and full day on the Drake, everything has been great. Each day brings with it new sights and experiences that can really only be summed up with one word: Amazing.
Christmas Day was one of the best we’ve had thus far. We finally were lucky to get some sun and blue sky, which really set the tone for the rest of the day’s activities. From the morning landing and climb to the top of Danco Island to the early afternoon Zodiac cruise through waters reflecting the scenery like a mirror, Christmas dinner on the deck overlooking Neko Cove, and sliding down the glacier face at the landing in Neko Cove, each experience seemed to top the previous, leaving me with some amazing memories and pictures.
Today, found us heading through the Lemaire Channel, a fairly narrow and ice-filled passage along the peninsula. Since our first landing site was blocked with ice, we headed further south towards the Vernadsky Station in the Argentine Islands. This is a Ukrainian research facility, complete with the “southernmost souvenir shop,” that is home to around 25 men. It was interesting to see a working station, and hear from the people who spend extended periods of time living and working “on the bottom of the world.”
We are now heading towards Port Lockroy, where we will be able to send our postcards and also get some additional Antarctic gifts (Shawna, I actually may be able to fulfill your request) and get an additional view of life in the Antarctic. I can’t believe that I only have a few more short days left on this fantastic voyage. I’m very glad to have been given this opportunity and have also been able to share the experiences with some great people. I can’t wait to get home and share my pictures (well over 1000) and memories about this amazing place.
I hope everyone at home is doing well and had a great Christmas. See you in a few days!!!
Cheers, Melissa Jamrock
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Rick Keys - Student
Yesterday was a great expedition day. On our first landing we hiked up a mountain by some penguin highways. Once we reached the top, the view was amazing. It consisted of glaciers, icebergs, and mountains. We hung on the top of the mountain for a while, talking and taking pictures. Getting down the mountain was a lot of fun. I managed to go down via rolling and sliding on my back. It was very fun and exhausting. The next landing was a spot just dedicated to sliding down the mountain. We hiked up the side of a mountain and slid down snow compacted from previous people. It was also our first landing on the actual continent so now I have officially visited all seven continents. To my parents, I am having a great time and have been getting pictures of myself on all these places. I will see you when I get back.
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Timothy Koeth - Student
Hey Everybody!
Greetings from the bottom of the world! Today so far has been an adventurous and exciting day for all of us aboard the Polar Star. After a beautifully sunny day yesterday, we have unfortunately, had some slight weather changes overnight. We woke up this morning to a gloomy sky and high winds, but all of this darkness couldn’t dampen the spirits of us expeditioners.
Our first stopover this morning was at Vernadsky Station. Vernadsky Station is a Ukrainian research station that was purchased from the British Antarctic Survey in 1996. At the base, we met scientists and researchers and got a full tour of the center. All of the researchers were very grateful and happy to see us. For a while we spent time with our new friends playing pool, while a couple of others played a few short songs on the guitar. I was fortunate enough to have a few conversations in broken Russian with the researchers.
Soon we will be heading off to Port Lockroy, the current British Research station.
Happy Birthday to Jimmy and Jared back home!
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Brian and Kellie Scott – Adult Expeditioners
We just returned from visiting a Ukrainian research station. At this station they do meteorological, seismic, atmospheric, and ozone research. There are 24 men who live in this small station year round. We got to see all of their scientific instruments. From there we visited the Wordie House, which was a former British Antarctic survey station from the 1950s. It was interesting to see where six men would spend the dark, Antarctic winter. Later today we will be visiting a former British research station, Port Lockroy. We hope everyone at home had a great Christmas! See you all soon!
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Molly Woodrow & John Paydo - Chaperones
Well……here we are in the middle of Antarctica. It is so unbelievable to think that we are actually here. We would like to share our Christmas memories with all of you.
The day began with a landing to Danco Island where we climbed a huge hill which was deep with several feet of snow. It probably took an hour to make it to the very top, but, OH the view!!! Once on top the entire group that made it to the top, we sang Christmas songs and applauded each other for making it to the crest. After several pictures, taking in the moment, and observing the Gentoo penguins, we began our descent. We tried rolling for a while but got so dizzy that we had to stop. Occasionally we would try to slide on our bums, but mostly we hiked through the deep snow again. We navigated our way down by following the Gentoo penguin highway. When we reached the bottom, we felt relieved but had a great sense of achievement for having accomplished such a difficult feat.
For our second stop we cruised in the zodiacs around Neko Harbor, observing crabeater seals and amazingly beautiful glaciers. The blue color within and under the various icebergs and glaciers is like a Caribbean blue. It’s just shocking for such a white/gray place. The blue comes from the reflection of the sun on ice bubbles, which are thousands of years old.
Upon our return to the ship we all gathered on the bow to enjoy the unusual bright sun. Many of the students even got sunburned! All of sudden, guess what?! Santa appeared out of the blue in one of our zodiacs, carrying a bag full of presents. We were happy that he was able to find us all the way in Antarctica!! A party ensued with all of us taking a number so we could choose a present from his bag of goodies. Students were given the option to choose a present or “steal” one off someone who had already chosen. Most of the “thieves” got booed if they chose to do this. What fun we had!
Then the outstanding staff of the Polar Star presented a delicious Christmas dinner buffet for all of us. Fresh salmon, asparagus, mashed potatoes, turkey, and chocolate éclairs were just part of the fare. After the dinner we heard about our third excursion of the day. We were going to have a sledding party!
The students were able to climb up another hill, right next to a Gentoo penguin rookery. It was quite a hill and meant that the brave souls who ventured down went airborne from time to time. The amount of time to descend we just a small fraction of the time it took to get to the top. We had a few normal scrapes, but all had a wonderful time.
Once back on the ship, we had an evening for visiting and mulling over all the great memories from our exceptional Christmas Day.
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Ryan Kits - Student
Hello everybody - Sorry about not posting a Christmas Day journal.
Yesterday was the most unbelievable Christmas ever, definitely in the top ten. When I woke up I had a little pang when I thought about how everybody would be together having Christmas, but then I walked outside and got hugged by about eighty different people. “Merry Christmases” were flying around so that little pang all but disappeared.
Christmas Day started out with a landing at Danco Island, a small island surrounded by huge mountains and glaciers. We all hiked up to the top, and when we got there, we checked the temperature. It was pretty warm (about 10 degrees) to be hiking up a super steep hill, breaking through snow up to your knees or waist. The top of the island was a huge ice cap with a little covering of snow so it was a little easier to walk on that. I walked far away from everybody, and when I stopped, I saw an avalanche on the Antarctic continent, which was only about 500 yards away through a small strait.
Later on we went on a zodiac cruise with Geoff and Bill Lishman. Bill is an artist and the man on which the movie “Fly Away Home” is based and he is one intriguing guy! He is so smart and is always able to put an artist’s spin on everyday kind of things. On the cruise we saw some crabeater seals and some spectacular glaciers. One had a huge crack with a dark blue arch formed right in the middle of it. The zodiac cruise was cool.
We had a sweet Christmas dinner in the lounge. The waitresses were all dolled up, and it was really neat to see them have a little more fun than usual with all of us. They were taking pictures with us and just having a good time. Oh yeah--we had the gift exchange too!! Scobie came cruising out from behind an iceberg dressed up like Santa, with a big black garbage bag for a sack and Santiago as a driver. It was a pretty cool sight to see. I ended up getting a book on Shackleton which is really cool so I’ll be able to teach you all about this amazing guy when I get home.
To end the day, we went tobogganing on a massive, STEEP hill right next to a Gentoo penguin rookery. It was a perfect end to a perfect day. Anyway, I’m out of here--too much to do to be typing on a computer!!
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MORE STUDENT JOURNALS!
(written on the evening of December 24)
Posted by Anthoula Lelekidis
Merry Christmas to all!! We are currently heading south to the Gerlache Strait!! For the past three days we have been making two to three zodiac landings, which equal an extremely tired Anthoula. At some points of this travel, I couldn’t believe my eyes. Unfortunately, today we spotted our first leopard seal on land, but he didn’t look as healthy as he should be. The elephant seals were a blast to look at, while they lay there farting, burping, and basically sleeping the day away. Once we got back onto the ship, we had a lovely dinner, and now we are about to watch a late night movie before bed. The blue sky is starting to peak out, which always seems to bring a smile to my face. We only have three short days left to explore the Antarctic, and I hope I have brought enough film with me!
I wanted to say Merry Christmas to my whole family: Mom, Dad, Steve and Papa... Papa, I miss you and love you dearly! Enjoy your dinner and gifts!! Stay safe and don’t worry about me, I’m having the time of my life!! See you soon!
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Hello First Graders, Family and Friends!
Needless to say, my decision to go to Antarctica has been validated many times over since we crossed the Antarctic Convergence! The first taste of Antarctica was a giant tabular iceberg spotted from the captain’s bridge, which is open all hours to ask questions and learn about navigational instruments. Actually, it looked as though Elephant Island was on the horizon. I thought we were about to see land after a long, but relatively calm crossing of Drake Passage. Instead an iceberg the size of Eastbluff Elementary transpired! I never imagined I would be so awestruck looking at a piece of ice. It was really an indescribable experience. We finally did hit Elephant Island. It was unreal to see this desolate place where Shakleton’s men were stranded when their ship was crushed in the Weddell Sea in1915. From there, we traveled south along the Weddell Sea and have made numerous zodiac landings. We are so lucky to have true experts on board who lecture and take us out to actually investigate the wildlife, geology and ice. This outdoor classroom model is the prototype for hands on science - maybe Char is reading! The energy and experience of the educational team on board is quite remarkable.
Just to share a sound bite or two of today, as there have been so many stories to tell and we have been fortunate to have had many zodiac landings… today began by entering Neptune’s Bellows of Deception Island, a collapsed active volcano. Also, on Livingston Island we saw about 30 elephant seals, Weddell seals, a leopard seal attacking a penguin along with Chinstrap and Gentoo penguin colonies with baby chicks and nesting Kelp Gulls.
I cannot wait to get back and share my new knowledge and pictures of this great white continent. Merry Christmas Dominic J
With Love,
Danielle
Or
Mrs. Fratantaro J xoxo
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Posted by Dian Horton
Today was an amazing day. We had an early wakeup call at 7:00 to watch as we made our entry into Whaler’s Bay. After disembarking the ship, we went to visit the old whaling station and Neptune’s Window. We went back to the ship to continue our travel to Hannah’s Point. At Hannah’s Point, we saw three groups of Elephant Seals resting on the beach. We observed them as they were living their typical life- relaxing on the beach.
There were also nests of Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins with chicks and eggs. Two confused and lost Macaroni Penguins also graced us with their presence. As we traveled across to the other part of the island, we saw a Leopard Sea attack a penguin. It was amazing to watch as the sea successfully captured dinner. Many of us found it sad and disturbing, but that’s life. Now we are continuing our journey and plan on cruising for the rest of the night.
It looks like it’s going to be a white Christmas here!! Merry Christmas Eve Mom and everyone else out there! Have a great holiday!
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Posted by Karen Sullivan
Happy Holidays Everyone! This message comes to you from one of the newest members of the Antarctic Swim Team! Yes, today we took the plunge into the frigid waters of Whalers’ Bay at Deception Island. To all of my family and friends … you knew that I would just have to do it! To anyone who thinks that we were all slightly insane, the photos will give a clue about how we made the experience a little more bearable than you might imagine.
Every experience on this expedition has been powerful. Whether cruising past Elephant Island where 22 men spent four months in extremely harsh conditions waiting for an uncertain rescue by their “Boss” Shackleton or standing in the midst of thousands of penguins trying to hear the individuals amidst the cacophony of “voices,” the intensity of the moment can be almost overwhelming.
Our visit to Deception Island today was, for me, the most awe inspiring landing that we’ve made thus far. We were greeted on shore by a variety of wildlife, including chinstrap penguins, a leopard seal uncharacteristically resting on land, and a Weddell seal that has been nicknamed “Walter.” For me, though, it was the human history of the place that caught my imagination. Deception Island is home to an abandoned whaling station and British Antarctic Survey base. In the end, the base had to be evacuated because of the volcanic activity at Deception. The island is actually a collapsed volcano. To walk in the footsteps of those who showed such spirit to survive in so extreme a place is an action that touches the soul. To see the whale bones and remember that humankind came very close to hunting the whales to extinction is sobering. To do all of this during a snowfall that really shouldn’t be happening at this time and in this place brings the issue of climate change literally into your face.
Again, Happy Holidays to all!

(Old Whaling boat - at Deception)
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Posted by Valerie Perez:
Well first of all, it’s CHRISTMAS EVE! I wonder where everyone back home is going! Well today was a really great day once again! My highlight of the day was the elephant seals at Hannah Point. They made my day! They reminded me of my little fat bulldog! They were farting and burping! It was great! The sun was out, and it wasn’t as cold as the other days, but it was still cold! Some of the kids went swimming! Yea! I know crazy, huh? A group of our adults dug a hole on Deception Island, where there is a current volcano that is still active so the ground is hot. In order to go into the manmade “spa” you had to jump into the Antarctic water. I also saw a Macaroni penguin--well two of them, and they looked awesome!
Mom and Dad: I’m having such a great time. I do miss you all, but that’s why I kept my other memory card so I can look at the pictures of us! They make me smile all the time! Especially the ones of Alfred and me! Can you believe it? Tomorrow is Christmas! This is going by so fast. Like they always say, time goes by fast when you’re having a good time. I’m so excited with all the snap shots I got of beautiful scenery and wildlife that I just want you guys to see them now. But I want to amaze you guys personally. It’s just so unbelievably beautiful out here! Seriously, the most beautiful quotes and words cannot describe just how gorgeous it is here! As we go on to end our day, I just wanted to wish everyone Happy Holidays, and may God bless you all and everybody’s families.
For the families who are missing all your beautiful beloved children – DON’T WORRY! We’re all having such a great time together and getting along great! As for now, I’ll get back to you tomorrow! Love ya!
Love Always,
Your Princess (your 5 point star)
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Posted by Christine Page
Christmas Eve and it is snowing, the temperature is 0 degrees and we have two Zodiac drivers and lecturers that could be Santa Claus. This morning we entered a caldera formed by a volcano. Inside the caldera the water was calm, black shoreline up to a certain elevation then stark hills. Along the shore were remnants of a whaling industry and an airplane hanger. The outer buildings were of wood that could not have been a good insulation, but the men who lived and worked here seemed to survive. I wondered about home conditions that made them come here to work. It may have been a chance to work or they wanted an adventure. On the shore we saw chinstrap penguins and several Weddell seals. After lunch we took the Zodiacs (which I am getting used to) to Hannah Point with a colony of Chinstrap penguins and two Macaroni penguins nesting in the middle of the Chinstrap nests. Gentoo penguins walked among them and you can easily see the differences in the animals. The Gentoos were very gentle, walking gracefully through the rocks. We moved from that section of beach to the other side in the Zodiacs where a colony of Leopard seals slept on the beach waking up to belch, burp and other noises to the delight of the observers. They were huge, over 1000 pounds. I watched one take 15 minutes to move 20 feet to the water. He would move 5 feet and stop to rest, then move again until he reached the water. A younger seal took less than 5 minutes to go further into the water. Walking to the Zodiac I found a krill washed up on the beach. It is amazing to know that the small shrimp like animal is the sustenance for so many animals in Antarctica.
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Posted by David Otten
Today…I became a man. On a small, rocky, sandy beach on Deception Island, I stripped down to my swimsuit (exposing my extremely attractive physique). I faced Whaler’s Bay (it was very cold) and without thinking twice…I ran in. My whole body reacted strangely; it was terrified with the freezing water and, yet, it was roaring in triumph. After a few seconds I ran back out, straight into the muddy hot spring. Lying there in the mud, I laughed aloud, mocking the water and yelled….
“I AM SPARTACUS!”
Isn’t that the corniest piece of…fluff you have ever read? …..But seriously, I did swim in Whalers’ Bay, and I have photographs to prove it. …And I did yell “I AM SPARTACUS!”
Our other activities were not as insane. We have had numerous landings, spotting many varieties of wildlife. We experienced the Antarctic food chain personally as we watched a leopard seal in the water find, fight, kill, and skin a penguin. The scenery here is incredible, although I have no doubt that global warming exists. I expected very little precipitation here, considering this is a polar desert. It has snowed every day since we have been here. Plus, we watched Al Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth, which was excellent.
On a happier note, I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas, or for you people who are obsessed with political correctness, Happy Holidays.
A
word to my family: I have not shaved since I’ve been here. It’s pretty much awesome.
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Posted by Jessica Young-Keffer
Merry Christmas to my family and friends! Strange that I’m not home for Christmas (first time in 29 years!), however, I’m in a very special place right now. We had an unbelievable day today, with two landings on two very incredible islands. We were able to see a leopard seal on (literally) Deception Island… an EXTREMELY rare find. As well, at Deception Island, we visited Whaler’s Bay, which has an extraordinary history to it.
The rest of the details to come later!
There are specific people I’d like to say a special Merry Christmas to! My husband Kyle, my dad and mom (Ron & Lynn), my sister (Jen), mom Keffer (Patty), Grammy & Bob, the Williams family, all the Keffer’s on the east coast of Canada (Kristen, Nicole, Lily, Karl and Susan), and of course, all my other family and friends that are tracking my journey… I’m tremendously lucky to say they are too numerous to name… I hope you all have a wonderful holiday! xoxo
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Posted by Kendra Lachine – SOI Participant Coordinator
Hello Friends, Family and everyone out there in cyber-land,
I am happy to let you all know that the students on this expedition continue to amaze me with their sprit, endurance, interests and skills. Each member of the diverse group brings something unique to the expedition and together we really are a team.
Today we made three landings, one in Deception Island and two on Livingston Island. This morning the ship entered Whalers Bay through Neptune’s Bellows; the entire Expedition Team was on deck at 7:30am to watch. Near the end of our first landing many of us joined the SOI Antarctic Swim Team. To qualify for this distinction one had to run into the ocean and submerge their entire body and head. The BRISK dip was followed by a wallow in a homemade hot tub – you will need to ask your son, daughter, student or friend for more details when they return home. The second landing was coloured by the vocal stylings of Elephant Seals, Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins. We also had the opportunity to hear Eric lecture on ice and icebergs, Scobie share one of two of his stories and Olle speak on the history of Whalers Bay. Needless to say this was another wonderful, full day of adventure and learning.
On Personal Note; I want to wish my Mom, Dad, Robyn, Mark, Denis, Edward and all my friends and family a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. I miss you and love you all very much. I am very much looking forward to filling you in on the many wonderful details of my adventure.
Best wishes this Holiday Season,
Kendra
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Posted by Robert Keenan
What a day! We started by entering Whalers’ Bay at Deception Island. We were woken up early so we could watch the boat enter the bay through the collapsed wall of a volcano. Through the mist we could see enormous glaciers and snowy bluffs approach. Once we landed we were free to explore the whalers’ station and the British Antarctic Survey’s buildings, which were abandoned during the most recent eruption in 1970. We could also walk up to Neptune’s Window which is where a large portion of the surrounding cliffs were gone. The view was incredible. On the beach below the Window three seals were resting. Two were Weddell Seals, one of which was only around a year old, and the third was, surprisingly, a full grown adult Leopard Seal. We were told that the only time Leopard Seals were out of the water was when they would be on floating ice so there was something seriously wrong with this one for it to be on land. It was so still that two curious Chinstrap penguins were able to approach the lethargic leviathan with out getting attacked. This reinforced the severity of the seal’s condition; it’s unusual for the apex predator of the Antarctic to pass up an easy meal. After the seals we were able jump into the bay and then back into a makeshift hot spring that was set up for us.
Our second landing was at Hannah Point on Livingston Island. Here we observed the massive Elephant Seals. The Seals greeted us with a grand chorus of flatulencies, belches, and the inevitable smells. The seals were piled on top of each other so they could stay warm. Every now and then a young seal would try to move into the warm center but the adults would quickly teach it a lesson. After the seals we moved on to the Chinstrap and Gentoo rookeries. It was fun watching the attentive parents feed their young. Today has by far been my favorite day.
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For more information about the extraordinary Deception Island check out this site.
Stay tuned for more!
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